How to get the perfect Mad Men style haircut

Often referred to as 'your crowning glory' hair can make or break a look. This is very true of the gentleman of both the past and of today.
With the ever changing fashions in hair it is becoming increasingly hard to find a good old fashioned barber who can do a classic 'short back 'n' sides' and do it well.
Here are a few tips on how to both get and keep that classic gentleman's cut that I have come by way of trial, error and research.



1950s barber at work

Finding the right barbers
This is no easy feat and I'm afraid the best way is largely down to risk-taking but if you have a friend or work colleague with a hairstyle that you admire the cut of then ask them where they went.
Also do not be afraid to stop a gentleman in the street with a dapper coiffure and ask who his barber is.
He will be flattered and surely only too happy to share his secret.
I'm fortunate enough to have two barbers that I swear by. One in my home town where I grew up and one near my work office.
My home town barbers is a traditional barbers. No fuss, very cheap pricing, good banter but experienced and thorough with their cuts.
The other is a high-end gentleman's 'hair salon' catering to the well heeled men of Marylebone. Again, the banter and cuts are second to none. Pricing is reasonable but more towards the higher end of the spectrum but not overpriced by any means.
Both are by appointment only as they are often busy so do be sure to ring ahead.

Have a browse via google or Yellow Pages and have a look at local barbers near your home or place of work. Look at their website (if they have one, most do not) and read the reviews.
Once you've shortlisted a few have a look at them in person. Do they look busy? A busy barbers is often a good sign. Are the premises clean and tidy? You don't want some filth merchant going near your ears with a soiled cutthroat! A short back and sides is one of the first cuts a young barber learns so there is really no excuse for A) not offering them and B) doing them badly.




Tapered, faded cut

The cut
Once you have discovered a good barbers that you're willing to try don't be afraid to tell them exactly what you're after. This helps them and will put you at ease in the knowledge that they know what you are after. Don't feel silly by bringing in pictures of the hairstyle you want. This helps them massively. Visual representation can only be a good thing.
Start off by asking for a 'classic short back and sides' if they ask you if you want it done with clippers say yes. A haircut done by scissors alone will look cheap and will soon grown out making it a waste of both time and money. Ask him to cut your hair 'tight and tapered on the sides and leave it long and full on the top.
If desired say you'd like a gentle fading at the back for an extra smart, clean and classic cut (see picture to the left).
If not done automatically ask your barber to use the cutthroat to finish off the edges and sideburns. You want short sideburns. Long ones are not becoming. You are not a hippy and they would completely throw off the clean slick look of your haircut.
And that's it! Sit back and enjoy.

Brylcreem - since 1928

The product
The best choice by far is Brylcreem. This easy to apply and gorgeous smelling hair cream has been styling men's hair since 1928. It instantly imparts a classic sheen as well as giving a light hold that doesn't give a nasty stiffness like gel or a gummy texture like wax. It's reasonably priced and also conditions the hair.
You can't go wrong with this and I swear by it.

Styling technique
After washing your hair with your favourite shampoo and conditioner loosely comb your hair with a wide tooth comb. Whilst your hair is still damp create a parting to your preferred side. (The most traditional side is the left if you want to play it safe).

The part should begin at the front of your hairline and use the arch of your brow to indicate where it should lie. Create the part to run straight to the top of your head before your crown starts to slope to the back.
Apply the Brylcreem through the hair, evenly but lightly. Remember the classic Brylcreem phrase 'A dab'll do yah' and that's all you'll need, just a dab. You don't want your hair to look like an oil slick. You're after a come hither silky sheen and glamorous gloss.


Don Draper - Mad Men

To get the right style, comb your left side of hair down from the part and slightly towards the back of the head at an angle. Then comb the top section of hair away from the part to the right side evenly. You can also comb the hair at the right hand side of your head slightly towards the back for an elegant sweep (see photo above of Mr Don Draper for reference). And now for the finishing touch - Take your comb and gently lift the front section of your hair from your peak upwards and back for a traditional and essential quiff. Not too high, you're a gentleman, not a rockabilly! You can push the front quiff of hair up from the back using your fingertips and tease with your comb for further lift. Then have a cigarette and a cup of morning coffee whilst you allow your hair to dry.
Once sufficiently dry you could use a light spritz of hairspray to hold your 'do in place. I find the more archaic brands of hairspray are the best! They are more economical and also impart a classic 1950s/1960s hold.
Perfect!

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How to wear pocket squares

Right now formalwear is having a resurgence of popularity. For far too long ‘smart casual’ has been the order of the day and a lot of men have grown tired of this dull way of dressing. Attention to detail and the finer things in life have become de rigueur of menswear.

Following on from the popular Mad Men style are the pocket squares, a basic essential of any well heeled businessman of the mid 20th century. But wearing them can be a landmine of potential faux pas. Here is a quick brief on how to wear pocket squares following the rules of both etiquette and style.

Formal occasions such as weddings, interviews, and black tie events require you to wear a suit or at least a jacket and tie. Part of this attire is a nicely folded pocket square in the breast pocket of your jacket.
Choosing a suitable pocket square can be a landmine. But it need not be. The tie and pocket square should not match perfectly, this looks cheap. To be a bit safer (and more suave), buy the tie and pocket square separately, but ensure that they complement each other.

The pocket square should echo the colours of your tie or bow tie (unless your tie is a plain colour then match away).
For example, if you have a black tie with purple paisley details a purple pocket square would look very dapper.
Pocket squares and pocket handkerchief are terms used interchangeably, but how do they differ?

A pocket handkerchief is made from linen woven cloth or white cotton cloth. These are perfect for giving a clean and fine finishing effect when placed in a breast pocket.
Pocket squares on the other hand are those made from a wider range of fabrics like silk or cotton. Silk fabrics, silk blends, cashmere or wool are most commonly used for squares as they are softer.

For a final flourish why not learn a smart way to fold your pocket square? There are several websites and youTube videos to choose from with various styles.
Go forth my good man. Straighten up and fly right!

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Mad on Mad Men's Stirling style

The whole world and his wife is hooked on the hit US TV show Mad Men. I myself feel like the show was created for me being a huge fan of the history of menswear.
Aside from the multi-faceted characters, gripping story lines and quotable one-liners, Mad Men is a visually stimulating showcase of classic menswear.
Set in New York in the early 1960’s Mad Men harks back to a golden age when men were men and women were ladies.

Aside from the comments on social history, the show has given men a greater realisation that men’s fashion and style can be masculine and powerful.
The late 1950’s and early 1960’s at a first glance can seem quite restrictive in terms of men’s, but it was the social rules of etiquette and perceived masculinity that made men work harder in self expression through dress. Attention to detail with a focus on accessories gave men the chance to shine.

It’s this attitude that is making a major comeback. Grey slim fitting suits are the order of the day for both work and occasion wear whilst bow ties have gained back a momentum that would make the Playboy Bunny proud.

You can flick through any men’s fashion magazine in the newsagents today to see this trend is everywhere. And it’s not just in clothing.
I was having a chat with my barber the last time I got a trim and he said that there has been a great rise in his customers asking for a classic ‘Short back and sides’ and also for the iconic quiff. Slicked back hair gives you a clean, fresh and confident look that is perfect for both the office and the nightclubs.

On my recent trip to the opticians I couldn’t help but notice the vast array of thick rimmed specs available. The classic Buddy Holly and Malcolm X ‘geeky’ style is once again de rigueur of ‘face furniture’ instantly giving you a retro, intelligently chic look.

Cardigans blend wonderfully well into this trend and are great for adding layers to both your workwear as well as your casualwear.

Going after that Mad Men look will leave you feeling classic, confident and strangely powerful.

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