Friday, 13 August 2010

How to wear pocket squares









Right now formalwear is having a resurgence of popularity. For far too long ‘smart casual’ has been the order of the day and a lot of men have grown tired of this dull way of dressing. Attention to detail and the finer things in life have become de rigueur of menswear.

Following on from the popular Mad Men style are the pocket squares, a basic essential of any well heeled businessman of the mid 20th century. But wearing them can be a landmine of potential faux pas. Here is a quick brief on how to wear pocket squares following the rules of both etiquette and style.

Formal occasions such as weddings, interviews, and black tie events require you to wear a suit or at least a jacket and tie. Part of this attire is a nicely folded pocket square in the breast pocket of your jacket.
Choosing a suitable pocket square can be a landmine. But it need not be. The tie and pocket square should not match perfectly, this looks cheap. To be a bit safer (and more suave), buy the tie and pocket square separately, but ensure that they complement each other.

The pocket square should echo the colours of your tie or bow tie (unless your tie is a plain colour then match away).
For example, if you have a black tie with purple paisley details a purple pocket square would look very dapper.
Pocket squares and pocket handkerchief are terms used interchangeably, but how do they differ?

A pocket handkerchief is made from linen woven cloth or white cotton cloth. These are perfect for giving a clean and fine finishing effect when placed in a breast pocket.
Pocket squares on the other hand are those made from a wider range of fabrics like silk or cotton. Silk fabrics, silk blends, cashmere or wool are most commonly used for squares as they are softer.

For a final flourish why not learn a smart way to fold your pocket square? There are several websites and youTube videos to choose from with various styles.
Go forth my good man. Straighten up and fly right!




Wednesday, 11 August 2010

Mad on Mad Men's Stirling style




The whole world and his wife is hooked on the hit US TV show Mad Men. I myself feel like the show was created for me being a huge fan of the history of menswear.
Aside from the multi-faceted characters, gripping story lines and quotable one-liners, Mad Men is a visually stimulating showcase of classic menswear.
Set in New York in the early 1960’s Mad Men harks back to a golden age when men were men and women were ladies.

Aside from the comments on social history, the show has given men a greater realisation that men’s fashion and style can be masculine and powerful.
The late 1950’s and early 1960’s at a first glance can seem quite restrictive in terms of men’s, but it was the social rules of etiquette and perceived masculinity that made men work harder in self expression through dress. Attention to detail with a focus on accessories gave men the chance to shine.

It’s this attitude that is making a major comeback. Grey slim fitting suits are the order of the day for both work and occasion wear whilst bow ties have gained back a momentum that would make the Playboy Bunny proud.

You can flick through any men’s fashion magazine in the newsagents today to see this trend is everywhere. And it’s not just in clothing.
I was having a chat with my barber the last time I got a trim and he said that there has been a great rise in his customers asking for a classic ‘Short back and sides’ and also for the iconic quiff. Slicked back hair gives you a clean, fresh and confident look that is perfect for both the office and the nightclubs.

On my recent trip to the opticians I couldn’t help but notice the vast array of thick rimmed specs available. The classic Buddy Holly and Malcolm X ‘geeky’ style is once again de rigueur of ‘face furniture’ instantly giving you a retro, intelligently chic look.

Cardigans blend wonderfully well into this trend and are great for adding layers to both your workwear as well as your casualwear.

Going after that Mad Men look will leave you feeling classic, confident and strangely powerful.




Wednesday, 21 July 2010

City break style



Summer is well under way! Time to get packing for those last minute holidays.

With low cost airlines a quick break is only a short flight away.
For those with little time and minimal annual leave, the European city break is the perfect vacation destination.
With a limited amount of days and luggage allowance it can be tricky to know what to pack.
As a frequent traveller I’ve had to learn the good old ‘trial and error’ way. To save you the hassle and now give you the essential guidelines to what to take for a headache free and stylish holiday.

Jeans:
Wear your favourite pair that are comfortable and will go with a majority of your tops you intend to take.

Trousers:
Unless you have a clear itinerary that says otherwise, take a pair of chinos in case you choose to dine in a sophisticated restaurant. Chino’s are smart enough for dining yet casual enough for wearing during the day saving you space in your suitcase.

Shorts:
For a traditional long weekend you don’t need more than two. Tailored shorts are a smarter, on-trend option. Choose one plain pair in a basic colour like beige or navy and one fun pair in an eye-catching check.

T-shirts and polos:
A polo shirt should be your basic top for summer. Pack a white and navy one for a standard colour base and one brightly coloured polo that would work great with both your plain shorts and your chinos.
A t-shirt is a classic choice for men’s casual summerwear. A horizontal white and navy or red striped crew neck t-shirt gives you a laidback yet stylish look.

Shirts:
A simple fine striped long sleeve shirt is ideal for wearing on smarter evenings away. Perfect for teaming with your chinos and deck shoes for a classic city break look.

Knitwear:
You may be heading off to Rome or Madrid but the weather can change anywhere at the drop of a hat, especially at night so a simple cardigan or v-neck jumper.

Footwear:
On a city break you’ll most likely be walking all over the place, visiting museums, bars and tourist attractions. The size of airports these days makes you feel like you’ve walked from Land's End to John o' Groats before you’ve even boarded the plane! For this reason comfortable footwear is a must. I find the best option is a traditional pair of deck shoes.
With a great non-slip outsole, water resistant leather uppers and a cushioned insole, deck shoes have the smartness of a loafer with all the comfort and ease of your favourite pair of
trainers.
Deck shoes are the perfect for wearing with shorts or trousers, again saving you space.
An easy to wear pair of canvas trainers are great for putting in your suitcase without weighing it down too much. It’s always a good idea to have an alternative pair of shoes incase your original pair hurt after long periods or wear, get wet, etc.

Outerwear:
Depending on your location and time of year a jacket is always a good idea if you have the space. You can always carry it onboard the plain or squeeze it into hand luggage.
If you are destined for somewhere sizzling like Athens or Florence in August you probably won’t need anything more than a bit of knitwear.

Accessories:
Depending on the weather a straw hat is an obvious choice. Lightweight, classic and ideal for keeping the sun off your head. They are a bit tricky for travel as you can’t put them in your luggage without damaging them so you either have to wear or carry it.
A good quality medium sized leather bag is essential for carryon luggage. Choose an updated satchel or a vintage flight bag for authentic jetsetter style.

You should now have a clear idea about what it is you should pack for your well deserved city break.
Bon Voyage!




Monday, 12 July 2010

Standard dressing rules men should live by


Confused? Don't be!


Some men seem to have some trouble with dressing. There are some unspoken rules that should be adhered to in order to allow you to always put your best foot forward without hesitation or deviation.

Never mix patterns
I have seen this a lot recently and it's just wrong! I saw a young gay man and he was wearing checked shorts and a striped t-shirt. Looking at him hurt like a hangover. What on earth was he thinking!? If you have a strong patterned piece team it with something plain. This way you don't dazzle the unsuspecting public with your patchwork quilt inspired ensemble. For example, you have a light blue and white wide striped long sleeved shirt. Do you team it with the navy pinstripe trousers or perhaps the plain navy trousers? Or you could go for the beige classic chinos?
Answer: Depending on the occasion the plain navy trousers or chinos are correct. If you work in a financial 'serious' profession then go for the navy plain trousers, but if you work in a creative media world then chinos are acceptable.
A word on striped shirts with striped trousers: A fine striped shirt can work well with some fine pinstripes. Steer clear of bold,wide striped shirts with pinstripe trousers.

A few words on layering
When wearing a shirt with a jumper, or t-shirt with a cardigan etc always have the lightest toned garment as the base. Par exemple: A pale blue shirt with a grey v-neck jumper, or a deep red shirt with a black cardigan.
Dressing well, dressing with style (and not the latest fashion trend that will have you looking back at photos ten years from now cringing with self loathing and doubt) really is about following aesthetics with a scientific efficiency.

Footwear
We are living in a very exciting time for menswear and this goes along to footwear also. We have more options than a smart brogue for work and a trainer for the weekend.
But more choice does not mean more opportunities to wear them!
A word of caution; NEVER is it acceptable to wear sandals, flip-flops or any sort of open-toed footwear in the office. Never. This is not up for negotiation.
I'm afraid women can and do get away with this. 'Double standards!' I hear you cry? Yes. Yes it is, but so is the number of sexual partners and also of giving up your seat to a female on the tube yet never is it expected for a woman to give up her seat to a man (disabilities and age can and do hopefully make exceptions).
I can't abide boots being worn with shorts. Boots are for trousers. Either jeans or tailored trousers are fine depending on the style of your boots. The more formal of boots known as 'shoe boots' are ideal for wearing with trousers, but DM's should really go with jeans only.

To tuck or not to tuck? That is the question.
Now, this can and does change with fashion but your body shape should really take more of a lead in determining when it is appropriate to tuck in your top or not.
In the 1970's it was all about tucking in your shirts and your t-shirts. This was the order of the day and this continued right into the late 1980's. By the mid 1990's (possibly with a nod to the grunge and Madchester music and fashion movements of the early 1990's) t-shirts and shirts were loose and flapped about freely over trousers. You would literally be laughed at if you tucked your shirt in.
The 00's has heralded a new chapter of menswear. We have gotten bored of messing up and have turned to dressing up. This is also the same of womenswear. The late 1990's- early 00's was all about messy hair and jeans. Women would wear some heels and perhaps a glittery top but that's about as dressy as it got. Then things changed with men wearing waistcoats, brogues whilst the girls scoured the vintage stores for full on 1950's prom dresses. Trilbys and flat caps for the chaps and fascinators for the ladies came to be the order of the day for special occasions.
With this return to looking well groomed comes tucking in. But with more of an attention to the item itself then with a dictation from the fashion conscious.
Casual tops such as t-shirts and polos should always be worn untucked. If you feel your top needs to be tucked in then it is too big and you should either have it tailored or buy a size that is correct in fit to your shape.
Whether it's a smart casual or formal occasion shirts should always be tucked in.
It really is that simple!
Meow for now.

Tuesday, 15 June 2010

Britannia rules the style waves



Not since the swinging '60's or the hedonistic years of '90's Britpop has the Union Jack been so widely used. Starting off with Union Jack's appearing on the roof's of the achingly cool Mini Coopers, the Union Jack soon popped up in fashion and conquered its way through interior design. Everywhere from John Lewis, Debenhams and Liberty, the Union Jack cushion is something of a must have item. Many versions have a strong vintage look working strong British Empire regalia with the red, white and blue.

With this century there has been a great rising against the West with the terror attacks of 9/11 and of the London bombings in 7/7. Perhaps it's this threat to our way of life that has once again stoked the fires of Britannia. Ringing in the spirit of the wartime and tweezing out our patriotic pride. In light of this, it is only natural to take influence from our golden eras. The main ones of the last 150 years surely are The British Empire, WWII, Swinging sixties and Britpop in the 1990's.

With a new sense of what Britain and to being British is, we can take a new pride not only in our country but also in our homes. After all, 'A British man's home is his castle'.

Tea and sympathy

There is nothing more British than a good cup of tea.
For centuries tea has been the cornerstone of British life. Once only the preserve of the very rich, tea soon became more accessible to all and is now deeply embedded in the psyche.

Within the last few years looking back has taken us forward in terms of fashion, film, music and popular culture. Recently there has been a big trend on thoroughly British style and memorabilia.
The art of tea has had a massive resurgence of popularity with the young and hip. The elegant and dainty tea party has made it more cool, more 'frock & roll' than rock & roll.

Tea sets are being reinvented with a new vision of style but still with a foot firmly in the best of British.
People are falling over themselves to buy or make cupcakes and even have a cupcake tower for a wedding cake. Prices for a ready made cupcake from £1.50 and can even reach £4 in some places.
The tea party also has risen in popularity albeit with a tongue firmly in the proverbial cheek.
It is quite common to now receive an invitation for a tea party of a weekend with a full spread laid out in the host's home complete with cupcakes. The ridged etiquette and form of the traditional tea party has been dusted away with more of a focus on fun than formality.
Marks & Spencer has a wonderful range named Posy Gingham which captures the spirit of the modern tea party. Gingham printed saucers are complimentary clashed with floral printed cups for a sweet mix and match English eccentric style. A milk jug, teapot and plates are also available along with floral gingham print tea towels giving you everything you need to throw your very own tea party.

















Monday, 14 June 2010

Garden party dresses

A return to classic feminine dressing has recently become one of the key trends for this Spring/Summer. Seen on the catwalks of Oscar De La Renta, Chanel and Dior with a focus on prints, this look is perfect for giving your summer a bit of sass.

In a wide range of fabrics from classic cottons through to lightweight, floating chiffons, the garden party trend has a focus on smart fitting cuts and bold and outrageously feminine prints.


Taking inspiration for traditional British garden party style, garden party dresses can be nipped in at the waist and then bloom out into a wonderful full skirt, or flow down into a slim line pencil skirt for a more confident, mature look.

Cheerful, bright and floral should be your mantra this season when shopping this trend. The floral prints add a burst of colour to a likely rainy British summer, whilst detailed necklines such as the timeless bateau give a smart line and a sleek silhouette to your neck making you as elegant as a swan on a lake. The prints can be large and loud or small but throughout the dress.
To modernise the look you can add edgy accessories such as spike heels and chunky necklaces or stay classic with flats and subtle jewellery.


Dress by Donna Ricco