Stonewashed jeans: Back from the brink



JC Jeans & Clothes from Cafe magazine



Their presence was noted both on the catwalks and in the audience of Fashion Week this year and they are clawing their way back into the Great British high street. Not only in Britain but also in Europe. Whilst I was on my annual trip to Stockholm, Sweden that I noticed in some of the painfully cool Scandinavian menswear magazines a few trend stories involving stonewashed denim. From that glimpse of effortlessly cool Swedish style in print I began to see jeans in literally a whole new light...(or should that be wash?)

Stone washing is the process used to give newly made denim a worn-out look. The fabric is placed in large industrial drums with stones (normally pumice) and spun so that the stones pound and beat the fabric for a softer feel with a vintage, repeatedly laundered look.
If someone had told me a few years ago that’d I’d soon be rushing out to buy jeans in the same hue as the ones I wore in 1988 (think Bros, The Smiths fans and Nick Kamen in that Levi’s launderette advert ), I’d have laughed.



Nick Kamen in 1980s Levi's advert

But last week I purchased my first pair of stone wash jeans (post 1980s of course).
I’m used to wearing slim or straight fit jeans in a dark 1950s style indigo shade, so I was really breaking out of my comfort zone in an ultra slim pair of stonewashed jeans.

And what a change they made! Not only did they give me a very 1980s rugged rock look but they made me feel quite edgy. I chose to keep it true to the 1980s inspiration and wore them with some canvas shoes and a grey sweater with a David Bowie print to the front.



ASOS authentic blue slim fit jeans

 As I always wear dark jeans for smart/work wear I decided there and then that my new stonewash jeans would be my jeans of choice for casual wear and weekends.

Due to their lighter shade stonewash denims are perfect for summer. Keep it classically cool and wear with a simple t-shirt, go for the indie kid look and team them with a graphic printed tee or update them with a simple tailored shirt.

For footwear canvas and deck shoes are an obvious choice but you could wear them with some classic brogues for a boho romantic look that’s sure to cut a fine figure of a man on the mean streets.
There is something wonderfully rebellious about worn looking stonewashed jeans (In a nonchalant kind of way of course).

With a wide range of cuts available to compliment your style and shape you’ll easily be able to find the perfect stonewash jeans in your preferred cut. So go on, break out of your comfort zone, tap into your inner 1980s rocker and get a pair of stonewash denims this spring/summer.



Classic 1980s Morrissey in all his stonewash denim glory

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How to get the perfect Mad Men style haircut

Often referred to as 'your crowning glory' hair can make or break a look. This is very true of the gentleman of both the past and of today.
With the ever changing fashions in hair it is becoming increasingly hard to find a good old fashioned barber who can do a classic 'short back 'n' sides' and do it well.
Here are a few tips on how to both get and keep that classic gentleman's cut that I have come by way of trial, error and research.



1950s barber at work

Finding the right barbers
This is no easy feat and I'm afraid the best way is largely down to risk-taking but if you have a friend or work colleague with a hairstyle that you admire the cut of then ask them where they went.
Also do not be afraid to stop a gentleman in the street with a dapper coiffure and ask who his barber is.
He will be flattered and surely only too happy to share his secret.
I'm fortunate enough to have two barbers that I swear by. One in my home town where I grew up and one near my work office.
My home town barbers is a traditional barbers. No fuss, very cheap pricing, good banter but experienced and thorough with their cuts.
The other is a high-end gentleman's 'hair salon' catering to the well heeled men of Marylebone. Again, the banter and cuts are second to none. Pricing is reasonable but more towards the higher end of the spectrum but not overpriced by any means.
Both are by appointment only as they are often busy so do be sure to ring ahead.

Have a browse via google or Yellow Pages and have a look at local barbers near your home or place of work. Look at their website (if they have one, most do not) and read the reviews.
Once you've shortlisted a few have a look at them in person. Do they look busy? A busy barbers is often a good sign. Are the premises clean and tidy? You don't want some filth merchant going near your ears with a soiled cutthroat! A short back and sides is one of the first cuts a young barber learns so there is really no excuse for A) not offering them and B) doing them badly.




Tapered, faded cut

The cut
Once you have discovered a good barbers that you're willing to try don't be afraid to tell them exactly what you're after. This helps them and will put you at ease in the knowledge that they know what you are after. Don't feel silly by bringing in pictures of the hairstyle you want. This helps them massively. Visual representation can only be a good thing.
Start off by asking for a 'classic short back and sides' if they ask you if you want it done with clippers say yes. A haircut done by scissors alone will look cheap and will soon grown out making it a waste of both time and money. Ask him to cut your hair 'tight and tapered on the sides and leave it long and full on the top.
If desired say you'd like a gentle fading at the back for an extra smart, clean and classic cut (see picture to the left).
If not done automatically ask your barber to use the cutthroat to finish off the edges and sideburns. You want short sideburns. Long ones are not becoming. You are not a hippy and they would completely throw off the clean slick look of your haircut.
And that's it! Sit back and enjoy.

Brylcreem - since 1928

The product
The best choice by far is Brylcreem. This easy to apply and gorgeous smelling hair cream has been styling men's hair since 1928. It instantly imparts a classic sheen as well as giving a light hold that doesn't give a nasty stiffness like gel or a gummy texture like wax. It's reasonably priced and also conditions the hair.
You can't go wrong with this and I swear by it.

Styling technique
After washing your hair with your favourite shampoo and conditioner loosely comb your hair with a wide tooth comb. Whilst your hair is still damp create a parting to your preferred side. (The most traditional side is the left if you want to play it safe).

The part should begin at the front of your hairline and use the arch of your brow to indicate where it should lie. Create the part to run straight to the top of your head before your crown starts to slope to the back.
Apply the Brylcreem through the hair, evenly but lightly. Remember the classic Brylcreem phrase 'A dab'll do yah' and that's all you'll need, just a dab. You don't want your hair to look like an oil slick. You're after a come hither silky sheen and glamorous gloss.


Don Draper - Mad Men

To get the right style, comb your left side of hair down from the part and slightly towards the back of the head at an angle. Then comb the top section of hair away from the part to the right side evenly. You can also comb the hair at the right hand side of your head slightly towards the back for an elegant sweep (see photo above of Mr Don Draper for reference). And now for the finishing touch - Take your comb and gently lift the front section of your hair from your peak upwards and back for a traditional and essential quiff. Not too high, you're a gentleman, not a rockabilly! You can push the front quiff of hair up from the back using your fingertips and tease with your comb for further lift. Then have a cigarette and a cup of morning coffee whilst you allow your hair to dry.
Once sufficiently dry you could use a light spritz of hairspray to hold your 'do in place. I find the more archaic brands of hairspray are the best! They are more economical and also impart a classic 1950s/1960s hold.
Perfect!

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Of pen and ink...

Nothing says confidence like a handwritten letter or note.
In a time where emails and texts shoot through the air on invisible waves of communication the pen seems more and more antiquated with each new app or Word update.
I’m confident that this won’t kill off handwriting as we know it but just change, outline and redefine our perceptions of it.

At best a modern man of the world may reach for a ballpoint to sign off letters, but just imagine the quintessential masculine elegance of a fountain pen.
Picture the gently rolling curves of wet ink seeping into the fibres of paper as you drag the sharp nib along the parchment.

All men like a challenge to some degree and I challenge you now to go out and pick up a fountain pen. Don’t just use and abuse it, you must become a master of this fine tool. Cursive writing was created for use with proper ink and a nib (well, a quill back then to be precise) and this comes across in the writing.

Imagine how dapper you’d feel by whipping out a slick Parker fountain pen from your breast pocket to sign a cheque or business document.
Even if you just use it for Christmas, birthday and Valentine’s cards, the recipient will take note and appreciate your efforts, for the markings of a proper fountain pen are unmistakable.

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Office Christmas party style



The date’s been confirmed, people are putting their name down and the venue has been booked.

Yes dear reader ‘tis the office Christmas party or ‘Xmas work do’ for the less formal.

The question on everyone’s lips in our office is ‘Are you dressing up?’.
My response is a rather vague ‘Sort of…’.
Deciding what to wear for the occasion can be a bit of a minefield.
‘Is that too dressy?’ ‘Is this too casual?’ ‘Why bother?’ echo in your mind.
Obviously the location of your staff party can act as a helpful aid in directing you to occupational festive success.

If your party is going to be held in a rather upmarket bar or club then I think you could wear something that you’d normally wear on a Saturday night out.
But if it’s in a pub or bowling alley I think it’d be fine to go in jeans and a casual top.

Going the extra distance and consciously making a bit of an effort with your outfit can only be a positive thing. Not only will you look and feel good but you’re bound to receive positive comments from your colleagues and maybe even that much sought after approving nod from your boss.

I can’t promise that by donning your new designer shirt will lead your boss into finally giving you that pay rise you’ve been angling for but it can’t hurt, right?

If you’re going straight from the office to the venue then there you have two options:

1) Wear your outfit during the working day then you can go straight to the party or
2) Bring a change of clothes and do a quick Clark Kent in the cubicle of your office loos.

As with many occasions you can’t fail with the tried and tested smart casual direction and go for the classic smart jeans and tailored shirt approach.
You could also choose tailored trousers if you want to really make a night of it.

Due to the cold weather it’s a good idea to add a smartly tailored jacket to keep you warm and also add a touch of suave style.
You should probably not bother with a tie or bow tie as this would formalise your look and one of the best things about work dos is the loosening of your look but do get a bit of your personality in. You could add a colourful pocket square or some jazzy cufflinks.

Finish off your outfit with some smartly polished shoes and you’re all set to look cool for yule!

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On the Fair Isle…A look at the hottest trend in men's knitwear.

The cold has set in and people are now donning their finest knits to keep warm.

This a/w has seen one of the most traditional and eye-catching knits make a much welcomed comeback.
That knit is Fair Isle.

Brought into the realms of popular men’s fashion by that original 20th century dandy the then Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII) when he took to wearing Fair Isle sweater vests in 1921.
Named after Fair Isle, a tiny island in the north of Scotland the knitting technique uses multiple colours. The Traditional Fair Isle pattern has a limited palette of five or so colours, using only two colours per row, which are worked in the round, and limit the length of a run of any particular colour.
But more recently the term Fair Isle applies to a wide range of knits that use several colours knitted in a blocks of varying patterns.

Fair Isle knits have a classically British feel with the heritage of 1930s-1950s enthused through the knits.
The dazzling use of contrasting colours and zigzag patterns were a much needed splash of colour to menswear’s often drab colour palette. Even almost 90 years later the effect is still the same – eye-catching, fun and stylish.

Recently designers such as Ralph Lauren (always a pioneer in heritage knits and Anglophilia) have produced some authentic vintage style Fair Isle pieces ranging from classic sweater vests (or ‘tank tops’ depending on your inclination) through to modern chunky knit cardigans with shawl necks.

This recent trend doesn’t stop there – Fair Isle has been applied to scarf trims, mittens and gloves. If it’s knitted it can be Fair Isle. From top designers through to the Great British high street all have welcomed the trend with open arms.

It’s taken a while for them to cotton on to this trend which has been years in the making. Original Fair Isle jumpers in vintage outlets have been much coveted items in recent years and these wonderful second hand boutiques were often the only place to get an authentic Fair Isle. But with the new trend high on the crest of the wave of style it’s now accessible to well dressed men about town everywhere.

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The problem with backpacks...

The journey in to work is never going to be the most amazing of trips but recently I have seen something that I found truly shocking…

As I endure my daily commute, my eyes have been drawn to something so terrible that I find it hard to retell…

On more than one occasion I have had the dismay of witnessing an average businessman wearing his well-made well-tailored suit accessorised with nothing other than a shabby backpack.

Wearing a backpack when you are not hiking or in fulltime education is bad enough but to put so much effort into making yourself look professional and smart, and then to go and ruin it with a backpack is just baffling.

It is not only a crime against fashion, but does it really send out the best message? When a promotion is on the table it could just be the difference between you and Dave from accounts with the dapper briefcase.

Ok, so perhaps I am getting carried away, but detail is important both in outfitting and at work. ‘What can I use instead?’ I hear you cry, well, the obvious and most traditional bag for men of the working world has always been the briefcase. The briefcase has recently been enjoying a renaissance and all the top designers now offer their update on the menswear accessory classic.

But then there is also the satchel with a shoulder strap that makes it both incredibly stylish and practical. Then, of course there is the modern ‘man bag’, in fact there’s a wealth of stylish yet practical options for us chaps to choose from for work. There is really no excuse.

I personally like to match my bag with the rest of my leathers of that day, so for example; if I’m wearing brown leather loafers, my belt and watch will be in the same shade along with my bag for the day. It makes a subtle but confident statement. But for your first transition from backpack to grown ups bag, just a stylish bag is enough.

So men of the city I appeal to you to please bin your backpacks and invest in a new bag that you can carry off with style, let the backpack wear you no more and show Dave in accounts just who’s boss.

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How to buy men's coats

With winter well on the horizon we are all thinking about our winter wardrobes.
Especially with coats and jackets.
Buying outerwear can be a daunting experience with so many different styles and fabrics around. But it really need not be. I like to buy a new winter coat every year and 2010 is no exception.
Along the way I learned a few tips to help you get the perfect coat and the most out of your outerwear this season.

It helps to break your criteria down through questions and answers you need to ask yourself. This way through a process of elimination you’ll be left with your winning coat. Parfait!

1) Do I wear smart clothes often?/Do I want a smart coat?
If you often wear smart clothes or are after a coat for wearing to and from work then a smartly tailored coat is going to be the best choice for you. Coats like a clean lined wool coat go perfectly well over suiting as well as keeping you warm.

2) Do I wear navy trousers or black trousers more?
Colour is always a personal choice but as every well dressed man-about-town knows mixing navy with black is a no-no. So if you personally favour navy trousers then aim for colours such as browns and greens that enhance and set off blues wonderfully.
If you tend to wear black trousers then of course you can wear black coats but also grey shades make a classically striking contrast.
Grey coats can also go with navy trousers so if you wear both black and navy shades then a grey coat is the one for you.

3)What size should I get?
Obviously try your regular size first. I’ve always tried to make sure there is allowance of space for thick knitwear or suits underneath the coat so it’s wise to keep this in mind whey purchasing your winter coat. When trying on the coat the key areas to focus on are the shoulders, cuffs and chest.
Do the shoulders sit well on your frame? Make sure they are not continuing after your shoulders end. Are the cuffs touching the end of your wrist/beginning of your hand?
Sleeves that are too short make you look like you’ve had the coat for a while and you’ve outgrown it (think back to that child in your primary school class who was forever wearing ‘half-mast’ trousers and shrunken jumpers) which is never a good look.
The chest is another key area. Use your normal chest size as a guide. The fit of the chest should be neither too big nor too small.

4)What style? This is where you can let your personality and style shine through.
Keeping in mind the times you’ll be wearing the coat most will help you decide between a smart or casual design. 2010 A/W’s coats for men have two clear winners as the must-haves of the season.

The duffle coat is a timeless classic that has made a comeback in a big way.
With the essential toggle fastenings, hood and warm wool fabric the duffle coat instantly conjures up images of school days, rioting 1960s Parisian students and Paddington bear. Go for either a traditional design or one of the many updated styles on offer.

Quilted jackets first created by Barbour are the other ‘on-trend’ choice and there are a wealth of options available. With the diamond quilted design these jackets give you excellent warmth.
I often refer to mine as my ‘portable duvet’ as it’s so cosy it’s like walking around in your bedding. These jackets exude country style. The perfect choice for winter, quilted jackets look great worn with both jeans or tailored trousers for that archetypal city boy look.

Whatever your style, whatever your outerwear needs there are many coats out there for you to choose from and make your own.

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